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The Julian's kit chassis was a molded one-piece unit, whereas an ERTL kit's chassis is a multipieced unit that would make a nicer finished product. The ERTL , with some work, could also be used for engine parts, chassis detail, and interior in this conversion.
Well, here's my story. The summer of was a great time to be driving, because all around me was muscle. The newspapers and magazines were full of ads promoting raw street power. One ad in particular caught my eye then, and to this day it still puts a smile on my face. The ad showed a Dodge Coronet Super Bee leaving the "tree. Most people thought that the Coronet was sinfully ugly—as one of my friends once H 22 put it, "Kinda looks like a really bad blind date!
The year was the last time the Dodge Super Bee was offered in the Coronet model line. A standard bumblebee wraparound stripe, which incorporated the crest, graced the rear of the body. A dramatic "C" stripe on the body sides was optional. Another stripe option, not listed but seen, was the stripe delete package; it gave the circular "Super Bee" crest on the rear quarter panel without a stripe. A cubic-inch engine mated to a three-speed manual transmis- sion was standard.
Optional engines were the six-pack and the Hemi. Transmission options, in addition to the three speed, were a four-speed manual and an automatic. The standard hood was a power bulge with two razor-edge, nonfunctional scoops. If you ordered the Ramcharger option, the hood came with two separate scoops and a hood underside arrangement that allowed fresh air to enter the carburetor. The Ramcharger option was standard with the Hemi power plant.
Wheel options included standard wheel covers, 14" deep-dish steel wheels, wire wheel covers, Rallye Road wheels, 14" or 15" wheels, or chrome-styled road wheels five spoke.
Tire choices included Exterior Colors and Codes A "Testified" six-pack engine with aftermarket goodies. Note the lack of heater hoses—a street-vs. Several years ago I wanted to build a Dodge Coronet Super Bee model, but the cost of a mint-condition unbuilt kit made this unattainable—this kit was rare!
I eventually found a built car in rough shape, but the car had potential and I felt good that I didn't have to pay a mint for it. No sooner had I bought the car when a rumor surfaced that a resin body would be available. The project sat for a few years while I waited for the resin release. When the resin finally became available, I was a bit disappointed in that it was not the best casting I have ever seen.
I tried to return the kit because of the flaws, but the caster was quick to point out that he was the only one casting a Coronet and that I should be happy with what I had. Both kits sat for several years while I decided what to do. The resin body needed quite a bit of cleaning up and body work to remove bumps, pinholes, and surface cracks.
The original built model was missing the stock interior, and it too needed body work. The tab was starting to add up. I finally decided to restore the original body, since it appeared to he the easier of the two to work with. The original body was hand-painted with gold—I should say, heavily painted with gold. I soaked the body in a solution of Pine-Sol for about 48 hours, and the paint washed away in a warm water rinse.
This revealed many problems and quite a bit of glue damage. The kit chrome was poor, to say the least, but it was all there and the pieces were in good shape. I stripped the chrome using nondiluted Mr. This completely removes the chrome in a short amount of time, usually in about an hour, and is safe to use. I used warm water and a brush to removed embedded, stubborn chrome, then rinsed the parts clean.
Then I packed up the parts and sent them to Chrome Tech for replating. I spent the time without chrome working with the body. I sanded the pits as smooth as I could to remove high spots, then filled in the low spots with Evercoat polyester glazing compound.
This two-part putty is a pleasure to work with. It dries quickly, sands easily, and can he worked on in about 45 minutes. I applied additional coats as needed and wet-sanded it smooth. Then I sprayed Tempo sandable primer on the body. After it was dry, I inspected the entire body, looking for additional problems. It's amazing how only one coat of primer revealed the additional work I needed to do! I removed mold lines, filled sink marks, and wetsanded the body to almost-bare plastic.
I applied another coat of sandable primer to fill previous sand marks and other imperfections. Since the body had no molded scripts, the painting process went very well.
The third 24 coat of primer was a nonsandable primer. This lighter coat covered the bare plastic without obliterating details such as door locks or moldings. After a light sanding and wash, I sprayed the body with five light coats of acrylic enamel in Plum Crazy.
I wet-sanded each coat with grit sanding cloth, then washed and dried the body. Be careful when using the grit cloth—it tends to cut the paint right down to the primer at the high spots. With initial coats of paint this would not be a problem, but it could be with the final few coats. Next I rubbed out the paint with Mequiar's no. I repeated this process for all five coats of paint. Mequiar's no. If you can't find Mequiar's products, you can substitute Bare Metal plastic polish—it too is paintable.
I applied a final "kiss-coat" of Plum Crazy and gently rubbed it to a high gloss. I applied Bare Metal foil to the moldings and placed a white Bumblebee stripe from Monogram's Super Bee kit around the rear of the car.
I set the body aside to be waxed after final assembly. The interior was very rough and the stock seats were missing.
Johan's Roadrunner kit had incorrect style high-back bucket seats, and I just happened to have a parts kit with an extra set of seats. The seats did not match the interior pattern, but I was not too concerned. The kit interior appeared to be from a Charger and did not match the interior pictures I had from a real Coronet, anyway. One problem I encountered was that the seats were too low when set into the interior bucket—the headrest barely cleared the top of the door panel.
I used a Plastruct I beam to achieve the correct height. This created another problem: The seat surface was now too high relative to the steering wheel, and needed to be angled upward to clear the raised seat.
When I test-assembled the interior pieces, the completed interior did not look odd or out of place. Seats from MFC's Roadrunner could also be used. Instrument panel detailing involved paint detailing the instrument faces and switches. Since the interior was not accurate, it didn't matter if the wood graining was correct or n o t — I liked it, and that's what mattered. The F60s are an easy conversion. The original automatic shifter was broken in three places and could not be repaired.
I bent a straight pin, the same diameter as the drilled hole, to match the original shape and then epoxied it into the drilled hole. This delicate procedure took quite a bit of patience.
I set aside the completed interior until later. Excellent sources for parts included the Roadrunner kit no. I used seats, six-pack engine parts, and the Rallye wheels from the Roadrunner kit.
The chassis and exhaust came from the Daytona kit. I considered using the chassis from the Roadrunner for greater detail, but I wanted this restoration to be as close to original as possible. The original engine was one horrific glue-blob mess and proved to be totally useless. I found a replacement block, originally from an MFC Charger kit, in a parts box. I easily adapted the six-pack parts to the Hemi block. If you cannot locate an automatic block, the model can be converted into a manual transmission car.
A fourspeed engine and transmission are available in the Roadrunner kit. I used yellow Detail Master wire to depict aftermarket Accel ignition wire.
I took exhaust headers from the Roadrunner kit, painting them flat black to resemble Gassier headers, and tied them into the stock exhaust system. The chassis from the Daytona had a separate exhaust system with mufflers, resonators, and exhaust tips.
I painted the chassis with polished steel and buffed it. I painted the rest of the drivetrain gloss black and painted the chassis flat black with gloss frame rails.
I used L Goodyear tires because they filled the wheel well completely. In my opinion, L60 tire labels don't look right on the front of a car. I carefully cut away the horizontal part of the L and then hand-painted two horizontal lines to make an F—Fs are correct for this car. Since the tires were 15 inchers, I had to go with the Rallye wheel. I detailed the wheels with matte aluminum on the wheel surface itself, leaving a chrome trim ring.
I painted the center caps gunmetal. For valve stems, I used a short piece of MSC black ignition wire. This wheel and tire combination really sets off the car. Remember to detail the center cap. Next, I put together the subassemblies. I polished the glass to near-new appearance and epoxied the glass into the body. I painted the inside of the body flat black and glued in the completed interior. I laid the chassis with the engine into the body, but initially it looked saggy.
I used Plastruct tubing as spacers between the chassis and the body in the trunk area. The body and chassis had four flat spots in this area, so the spacers fit perfectly.
The chrome finally arrived, and it looked great. I detailed the front grille with flat black in the grille area and painted matte a l u m i n u m on the surrounding trim. The taillights were badly broken, heavily glued, and unusable. I trimmed clear sheet plastic to the approximate shape of the taillight lens, backed it with Bare Metal foil, and painted with Tamiya clear red. Then I glued the lights to the chrome taillight panel and glued 26 the completed panel to the body.
These items are available from Scale Vanities. I also used an S S Specialties now named Detail Resources radio antenna, but be aware that this item is no longer available from them. Oh well, stung again!
A reissue would definitely be the way to go with this project, but I was impatient. Restoring a built kit is the nextbest choice, depending on the kit's condition and completeness.
Prices of restorables are beginning to climb, and price should be a major deciding factor when comparing a resto with a resin. Sometimes it's a tough choice. Don't download a restorable kit if irreplaceable parts are missing or if there is major body damage.
Pass on it, or the project will become a bottomless money pit. You can remove a bad roof and turn the car into a convertible, but this takes some advanced skills—without these skills, the project could become very expensive and frustrating. In this instance, a resin body may be the way to go. You need some special skills to wrork with resins, but the car will not need to be hacked apart to make an acceptable model.
This included parts kits, a resin body that I'll never use, and the built Coronet. One final piece of advice: Be honest with yourself and your skill level. Build for yourself, and try to improve with each new model.
Don't be afraid to try new techniques or products, but don't try them all on one project—if you do, you'll probably give up modeling for good. Heed my advice, and you won't get stung on your next project! The engine was a hp, specially modified cubic inch with three two-barrel carbs on an aluminum Edelbrock manifold. In NHRA had factored the engine at hp. The special engine modifications included stiffer Hemi valve springs, a low taper camshaft with special lifters, chromed valve stems, Moly filled top piston rings, a dual point distributor, Hemi-type connecting rods, and a roller timing chain with a three-bolt sprocket.
These modifications allowed the shift points to be around the mark. A four-speed transmission with Hurst shifter or Torqueflite automatic was standard. Other standard features included heavyduty inch drum brakes, Hemitype rear springs, a heavy-duty cooling system, a 4.
The car had a distinctive flat black fiberglass hood with a large scoop. On either side of the scoop was a decal boasting engine displacement. The hood was held down with four locking pins and needed two people to be handled—very impressive at the gas station when the attendant asked, "Can I check your oil?
If you picked up any automotive magazine of that era, you would find that the was a very powerful power plant. It rivaled the Hemi in power, yet was much easier to maintain. In I didn't think much of my friend's car until I rode in it.
Today I can dream of those days and recall them in plastic. To build a Roadrunner 6-bbl replica you will need the following: Johan's Roadrunner kit no. The basic conversion can be made from these three kits. Since I completed my conversion, Scale Speed Shop released a complete conversion kit in resin.
Unfortunately, availability of this fine conversion kit may be limited. For my conversion, I chose to add extra detail and used parts from various parts kits as I will describe. From the Monogram kit, I used the hood scoop, driver's door mirror, and air cleaner with the hood seal. You will also need a bench seat, which can be found in Revell's Chevy Panel Delivery kit no. I removed the twin scoops from the Johan kit hood. First I used a Dremel tool to remove the bulk of the material, then I sanded the entire area as flat as I could.
Some reissued versions of the Roadrunner may have a hood with the area under the scoops recessed.
This won't work, because if you remove the scoops, you could go right through the hood. The most current reissues have a suitable hood. I used spot putty to help smooth out the area even further.
I modified the hood scoop from the Monogram kit by removing the mounting lip on the bottom and sanding the top ridge flat. Then I glued the scoop to the Roadrunner hood and blended with some spot putty. I removed the Roadrunner name plate from the front edge of the hood. The real hood has a raised portion just in front of the scoop opening, but it was raised just 27 slightly so I omitted it from my model.
The hood from Scale Speed Shop accurately depicts the real hood. Or check in on our Facebook Page. Below are a range of FREE reviews, articles, techniques and photo sets so that you can sample the Magazine and experience the quality that is on offer for all subscribers.
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Printed in U. Over 3, items! Good luck with your models and be sure to send us photos of your finished projects for Reader Gallery. Rarely do I catch one, but this was too funny not to point out. Hi Colin, nice catch! Every once in a while, things like that make it through. Every day we are bombarded by computer-generated images in movies,TV shows, commercials, and even other magazines.
FSM is one of the few places where we can see something built by hand, not by a keyboard. A well-built model will look great without any enhancements; and splashing Photoshop effects over it is no substitute for craftsmanship. It also makes one wonder how much of a model is real, and how much was copied and pasted from another source or even from another photo of the object that the model is sup- posed to depict. Please help avoid such doubts by not using enhanced photos in the future.
Imaginative model building is more inspiring for all of us when the cre- ativity is displayed by the model itself. There, Mark shows how he pulled off the wonderful — and mostly practical — photo and lighting effects. I have to say I could not agree more with his comments about over-weathering.
That nicely weathered airplane with stains, smoke, grime, dirt, dust, etc. Airplanes in war zones, especially World War II, were often very dirty. Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome. E-mail your thoughts to editor FineScale. Please limit your comments to no more than words and include your name and location. Livermore, CA www.
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